At an altitude of 2248m above sea level, quiet, laidback and beautiful. Thimpu is the capital city of the erstwhile forbidden kingdom of Bhutan, Land of the Thunder Dragon. Surrounded by rolling hills and nestled by the Wang Wang Chu River, Thimpu is perhaps the only capital city in the world without a single traffic light.
Thimpu has had some habitation as well as its own dzong (fortress-monasteries unique to Bhutan) since the 12th century but it remained not much more than a scattering of hamlets until in the 1960s when it was declared the capital city of Bhutan.
Thimpu is your gateway to the unique cultural traditions of this fascinating Himalayan nation that measures progress not by GDP or per capita income but by Gross National Happiness and has among the highest human development indices scores in the region.
The elaborate National Memorial Chorten was erected in memory of the late Druk Gyalpo Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, the third king of the Wangchuck dynasty who began the process of opening up Bhutan to the outside world. Locals circumambulate the shrine all day. Don’t miss the paintings and engravings that adorn the chorten.
A must-visit quirky spot in Thimpu is the Takin Reserve. According to Bhutanese lore, a Buddhist master known for his fits of madness took the head of a goat and stuck it to the torso of a cow to produce the Takin, the large, shaggy goat-antelope that’s Bhutan’s national animal. An early morning visit is ideal for observing these lumbering, hirstute animals as they crowd near the reserve fences to feed.
Located on the west bank of Wang Chuu, the Tashi Chhoe Dzong (also Tashichhoedzong or Tashichho Dzong) houses the secretariat, the king’s office and throne room, and is also the site for spectacular masked dances during the annual Tsechu festival. Look out for stunning painted mandalas on the ceilings, images of Buddhist masters and the guardian kings on the north east entrance. The original structure dates back to the 17th century although much reconstruction work has happened in the late 19th and early 20th century to repair damage caused by earthquakes and fire.
Simtokha Dzong is the town’s oldest dzong, dating back to 1627. The dzong also houses one of the country’s leading language and culture institutes.
The Changangkha Lhakhang is one of Thimpu’s oldest temples and is known for its thousand-armed eleven-headed Bodhisattva, its beautiful black and gold prayer wheels and stunning views. Considered the patron temple of the vallay’s children, the temple is usually crowded with parents seeking blessings for their new-borns.
Interact with the nuns at Zilukha Nunnery, originally Drubthob Gormba or Thangtong Dewachen after its founder Thangtong Gyalpo. The nunnery has a chorten well worth investigating, as well as great views of the surroundings from its perch atop Gaden Lam.
The picturesque National Library was established primarily to preserve and showcase Bhutan’s rich wealth of Buddhist texts in Tibetan as well as Bhutanese Dzongkha. Along with centuries old block-printed and handwritten manuscripts are a European language books that make up the library’s small foreign section. Don’t miss the 7 foot tall photography book exhibited in the ground floor, reputed to be one of the world’s largest books.
The Institute for Zorig Chusum is a state-sponsored training school for the 13 traditional arts of Bhutan. Straddling a wide variety of disciplines including traditional thangka paintings, masks, embroidery, sculpture and so on, the institute is known for the breath-taking diemonstrations of skill it sometimes puts together for visitors. A must-visit.
Also worth a visit are the Folk Heritage and Textile Museums both of which give the visitor a detailed insight into traditional life, livelihoods and handicrafts of Nhutan and a way of living that may soon disappear in the face of rapid modernization.
The National Institute of Traditional Medicine is the production center for traditional medicine made from Bhutan’s wealth of medicinal herbs. The institute is also a training center for young future practitioners of the field.
Dechen Phodrang is Thimpu’s oldest dzong and is currently a monastic school. On display are rare 12th century traditional paintings and a giant statue of Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, the Tibetan Buddhist master who unified Bhutan.
Travellers may rent bicycles for short trips along nearby mountain trails or visit the local rock climbing school. The evening Buddhism classes at the Deer Park are also fulfilling and worth the time.